Tuesday 3rd November

This morning we visited Cabo Fisterra - The End of the Earth - it's a strange place - a narrow rocky promontory sticking out into the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean.

Apparently at the end of the promontory is a lighthouse.

However the lighthouse isn't actually the end of the earth - beyond it the promontory becomes a strange anarchic wilderness given over to unspeakable rites.

There is plenty of evidence of recent burnings. Maybe just of clothes and personal effects. Possibly of other sorts of cremations?

Imagine what it would be like here when the mist rolls in and the fog horns are turned on.

A few yards away were remains of another burning with remains of clothing and footwear scattered around next to a cross. The place absolutely gave me the creeps and I couldn't wait to get away.

There are graffiti everywhere possible.

Has all this weirdness got something to do with christianity? Apparently after having completed a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostella (where the church fraudulently claims Saint James is buried) you can gain extra points by continuing to Cabo Fisterra. This sign nearby marks the end of the pilgrimage.

From Fisterra we moved on to Muxia where we stopped for a brew by the fishing harbour. We are now on the Costa da Morte - the Coast of Death - where innumerable ships have been lost on the rocky headlands which stretch out into the Atlantic and which are pounded by massive waves for much of the time. Seemed quiet in Muxia!

The cemetery in Muxia is just up from the fishing harbour.

We stopped for the day close to the town of Laxe by an estuary. It's very quiet here. There is a small shop round the corner and a closed bar. We travelled 64 miles (103 kilometres) today.